The land of a million temples
Door: Alex
19 Januari 2017 | Myanmar, Hpa-an
The next morning, after I’d had a pretty good night, Paul looked like he hadn’t. His chair didn’t recline as far as mine, and he didn’t want to switch. We went out of the station and bought a pineapple for breakfast. Or rather, pre-breakfast. We found a hotel to stay in (the best one I’ve been in since the start of my trip, and only $25) but since we couldn’t check in yet (it was only 8.30), we had some breakfast on the next corner. The owners didn’t speak a word of English, we eventually managed to explain we wanted noodles, with vegetables. The guy came back after a little while and asked us “bok-bok?” while doing the chicken dance, and we said no. Then he came back with an egg, and we said yes. So we had some really good noodles with egg and veggies for almost nothing.
After checking in, we had a nap in the hotel room and then went to cycle around Mandalay. We had the cheapest lunch ever, spending less than 2 euro for the both of us, including drinks. We saw some temples, a beautiful bridge over an open sewer, some rats, and a slum where kids were playing with homemade kites. That evening, I ate crab, which was interesting (and actually quite good) in the restaurant across from the one where we had breakfast.
The next day we cycled to Mandalay Hill. On our way, we saw no fewer than 15 fire trucks speed by. There must have been a temple on fire or something. We still don’t know why there were that many. We then had some pineapple, walked up the stairs to the top of the hill, took some pictures, had some pre-lunch, bought some really cool ink paintings, walked back down. As we were walking out of the temple, a taxi driver came up to us to ask us whether we wanted to go to the really famous bridge at sunset. We did want to go, but he named a ridiculously high price, so after some negotiation, we settled on something that was vaguely reasonable. He would come pick us up at 4, so that he could show us around town for a little bit – included in the same price! How awesome is that?
Well, maybe not as awesome as you might think. We got taken to a place where tiny girls (probably over 18, but they were really small compared to us) were making beautifully woven fabrics. It was cool to walk around, but it was also obvious that they expected us to buy stuff. Next, a woodworker. There was someone carving wood inside the shop, but he didn’t look that skilled. The stuff in the shop was more important, of course, since we should really buy something. We didn’t though because none of it seemed nice enough.
Afterward, the bridge. Really nice at sunset, although there were altogether too many people. I really wish we’d have been able to see it without all the people. However, the sunset was beautiful and we did take some really nice pictures there. We were then taken back to an authentic Shan Restaurant. The Shan people are the ones in the northeast who want their own country, were promised their own country if they weren’t satisfied with the central government, didn’t get their own country and now keep fighting for exactly that. The food was pretty good.
The next day, we were supposed to leave, but since we didn’t plan it out, we decided to just stay a day extra, planning the next part of the trip and relaxing at restaurants and on rooftop terraces. A truly ‘awful’ day.
The next day, we took the boat to Bagan. A pretty expensive way to get there, but it was nice to just be on a boat on the river most of the day, although we did both get sunburned. When we arrived, we had to pay almost 25 euro to just enter the town. Apparently, Bagan has an entry fee. Paul was a little bit annoyed at this, and so was I, but I figured I still really wanted to see it anyway. We rented some bicycles and cycled around the area after waking up, saw some beautiful temples and a LOT of tourists. Who knew Myanmar was getting so touristy? We had some quail eggs as a snack at a street food cart and eventually watched the sunset from atop a temple. Pretty nice, I must say.
The next day, we got some electric bikes and went a bit further away from the touristy area. Although we soon found out that that wasn’t the best idea. My bike was running out of power after driving for less than an hour… We decided to turn back and made it till about 50 meters before the shop. I was told I got a little bit angry there, I don’t really remember because everything went red and the next thing I knew was having dinner at a really good Thai restaurant. I actually didn’t get Thai food this good in Thailand – but I’m getting ahead of myself. Paul didn’t eat much. As it turns out, we should have been more careful with the quail eggs…
That night, we got on a night bus to Inle Lake. I talked a bit to two nice guys from Germany and Italy while Paul tried to just sleep it off. That didn’t really work though, he got worse while on the bus. Really early the next morning, he was not feeling well at all. We were happy that we’d brought plastic bags. We got to a hotel and just slept because neither of us had had a very good night’s sleep. When we woke up, we walked around town, had some nice food, walked some more, went back to the hotel and finally went out for some dinner. Why is it important that we went back to the hotel in between? Well, we didn’t bring any money the second time. We realized this after ordering, and I said I’d go get it. Paul told me he wouldn’t let me walk around town in the dark by myself, which is when I reminded him that that was exactly what I had been doing for over 4 months before he’d arrived. We talked to the staff and they told us it would be fine if we’d just bring the money over the next day. Such friendly, trusting people.
When we woke up the next day, I realized Paul wasn’t the only one who got sick off the eggs… Paul was starting to get better as I was getting worse. I stayed in the hotel for 2 full days. Paul paid the restaurant that morning and eventually rented a bicycle the next day, but until that time wasted way too much of his time taking care of me. Which was really nice, but I also felt bad for holding him back from actually enjoying his vacation. On the third day, I thought I was feeling better, so we went on a boat trip around the lake, seeing all the wonderful things we’d seen on the taxi trip as well, although here we actually enjoyed the trip across the lake. Furthermore, we saw people rowing with their legs, some temples and houses on stilts, made of woven bamboo. I realized I’d been too hasty and we had to get a taxi back to the hotel. On our final day in Inle Lake, we walked around town doing nothing, since I still wasn’t feeling great.
That evening, it became apparent just how not great I was feeling. Paul carried my big bag since I could only carry 2 little ones. Apparently, a second food poisoning within 3 weeks of the first is not great for your strength. The bus driver, however, was absolutely wonderful. He hit the brakes before every bend and the gas in every bend. Which, as everyone knows, never makes anyone feel sick. Luckily, after about half an hour, the bus stopped again, so I figured I’d just fall asleep then so that I wouldn’t have to feel the driving style anymore. But we had to get off the bus in order to eat, which I couldn’t because I was too nauseated. I now understand how Buddhists can be so angry in this country…
The bus took us to Bago, then we got a different bus to Kyaiktiyo, where the Golden Rock temple is. The view there is absolutely stunning. However, before you get to this view, you have a crazy rollercoaster ride up the mountain, in trucks equipped with “seats”: 2 wooden beams, one under you and one just behind you. I was really happy that I wasn’t feeling like throwing up anymore because I definitely would have from this ride. The trucks drove up and down the bendy 10-15% slopes with speeds of up to 80km/h. Pretty awesome. It was like a rollercoaster ride. The temple itself was nice, but the golden rock was actually not as big as I’d expected. However, the views from atop the mountain were stunning. It seemed to be the highest mountain in the area, so we could see quite far. Afterward, we went back, got some food and went to sleep.
The next morning we took a bus to Hpa An. However, to get to the bus, we had to get on a tuk-tuk. And when I say on a tuk-tuk, I mean on a tuk-tuk. We climbed on top of it and had a wonderful ride between the luggage and some locals who were looking at us weird and kept taking pictures of us. Paul asked them to take a selfie with his phone as well. It was pretty funny.
When we arrived in Hpa An, we rented two bicycles to explore the area. It was beautiful. Lots of steep hills in the middle of flat countryside. We found a hidden temple when I saw a dragon’s head above the trees and Paul suggested we’d try to get closer. The people there seemed a little bit surprised about tourists arriving, but they were very friendly and tried to explain what was special about the temple. We then went to a more famous temple, which was built around a rock in the middle of an artificial lake. There were quite a few bee hives hanging from the rock, and there was a monk who tied an orange string around the wrist of all visiting, I assume to bestow a blessing, but we don’t know since he didn’t speak English.
That evening, something even more special happened. I could finally eat normally again. A blessing indeed. It was wonderful!
The next morning included a nice breakfast, me finally carrying my own bag again, taking a taxi to the border together with two other Dutch people, an amazing giant early lunch for only 1000 Kyat (0.70 euro) and exchanging the last of our money at the border. We walked across the Friendship Bridge into Thailand (which is where my next blog update will start)
After checking in, we had a nap in the hotel room and then went to cycle around Mandalay. We had the cheapest lunch ever, spending less than 2 euro for the both of us, including drinks. We saw some temples, a beautiful bridge over an open sewer, some rats, and a slum where kids were playing with homemade kites. That evening, I ate crab, which was interesting (and actually quite good) in the restaurant across from the one where we had breakfast.
The next day we cycled to Mandalay Hill. On our way, we saw no fewer than 15 fire trucks speed by. There must have been a temple on fire or something. We still don’t know why there were that many. We then had some pineapple, walked up the stairs to the top of the hill, took some pictures, had some pre-lunch, bought some really cool ink paintings, walked back down. As we were walking out of the temple, a taxi driver came up to us to ask us whether we wanted to go to the really famous bridge at sunset. We did want to go, but he named a ridiculously high price, so after some negotiation, we settled on something that was vaguely reasonable. He would come pick us up at 4, so that he could show us around town for a little bit – included in the same price! How awesome is that?
Well, maybe not as awesome as you might think. We got taken to a place where tiny girls (probably over 18, but they were really small compared to us) were making beautifully woven fabrics. It was cool to walk around, but it was also obvious that they expected us to buy stuff. Next, a woodworker. There was someone carving wood inside the shop, but he didn’t look that skilled. The stuff in the shop was more important, of course, since we should really buy something. We didn’t though because none of it seemed nice enough.
Afterward, the bridge. Really nice at sunset, although there were altogether too many people. I really wish we’d have been able to see it without all the people. However, the sunset was beautiful and we did take some really nice pictures there. We were then taken back to an authentic Shan Restaurant. The Shan people are the ones in the northeast who want their own country, were promised their own country if they weren’t satisfied with the central government, didn’t get their own country and now keep fighting for exactly that. The food was pretty good.
The next day, we were supposed to leave, but since we didn’t plan it out, we decided to just stay a day extra, planning the next part of the trip and relaxing at restaurants and on rooftop terraces. A truly ‘awful’ day.
The next day, we took the boat to Bagan. A pretty expensive way to get there, but it was nice to just be on a boat on the river most of the day, although we did both get sunburned. When we arrived, we had to pay almost 25 euro to just enter the town. Apparently, Bagan has an entry fee. Paul was a little bit annoyed at this, and so was I, but I figured I still really wanted to see it anyway. We rented some bicycles and cycled around the area after waking up, saw some beautiful temples and a LOT of tourists. Who knew Myanmar was getting so touristy? We had some quail eggs as a snack at a street food cart and eventually watched the sunset from atop a temple. Pretty nice, I must say.
The next day, we got some electric bikes and went a bit further away from the touristy area. Although we soon found out that that wasn’t the best idea. My bike was running out of power after driving for less than an hour… We decided to turn back and made it till about 50 meters before the shop. I was told I got a little bit angry there, I don’t really remember because everything went red and the next thing I knew was having dinner at a really good Thai restaurant. I actually didn’t get Thai food this good in Thailand – but I’m getting ahead of myself. Paul didn’t eat much. As it turns out, we should have been more careful with the quail eggs…
That night, we got on a night bus to Inle Lake. I talked a bit to two nice guys from Germany and Italy while Paul tried to just sleep it off. That didn’t really work though, he got worse while on the bus. Really early the next morning, he was not feeling well at all. We were happy that we’d brought plastic bags. We got to a hotel and just slept because neither of us had had a very good night’s sleep. When we woke up, we walked around town, had some nice food, walked some more, went back to the hotel and finally went out for some dinner. Why is it important that we went back to the hotel in between? Well, we didn’t bring any money the second time. We realized this after ordering, and I said I’d go get it. Paul told me he wouldn’t let me walk around town in the dark by myself, which is when I reminded him that that was exactly what I had been doing for over 4 months before he’d arrived. We talked to the staff and they told us it would be fine if we’d just bring the money over the next day. Such friendly, trusting people.
When we woke up the next day, I realized Paul wasn’t the only one who got sick off the eggs… Paul was starting to get better as I was getting worse. I stayed in the hotel for 2 full days. Paul paid the restaurant that morning and eventually rented a bicycle the next day, but until that time wasted way too much of his time taking care of me. Which was really nice, but I also felt bad for holding him back from actually enjoying his vacation. On the third day, I thought I was feeling better, so we went on a boat trip around the lake, seeing all the wonderful things we’d seen on the taxi trip as well, although here we actually enjoyed the trip across the lake. Furthermore, we saw people rowing with their legs, some temples and houses on stilts, made of woven bamboo. I realized I’d been too hasty and we had to get a taxi back to the hotel. On our final day in Inle Lake, we walked around town doing nothing, since I still wasn’t feeling great.
That evening, it became apparent just how not great I was feeling. Paul carried my big bag since I could only carry 2 little ones. Apparently, a second food poisoning within 3 weeks of the first is not great for your strength. The bus driver, however, was absolutely wonderful. He hit the brakes before every bend and the gas in every bend. Which, as everyone knows, never makes anyone feel sick. Luckily, after about half an hour, the bus stopped again, so I figured I’d just fall asleep then so that I wouldn’t have to feel the driving style anymore. But we had to get off the bus in order to eat, which I couldn’t because I was too nauseated. I now understand how Buddhists can be so angry in this country…
The bus took us to Bago, then we got a different bus to Kyaiktiyo, where the Golden Rock temple is. The view there is absolutely stunning. However, before you get to this view, you have a crazy rollercoaster ride up the mountain, in trucks equipped with “seats”: 2 wooden beams, one under you and one just behind you. I was really happy that I wasn’t feeling like throwing up anymore because I definitely would have from this ride. The trucks drove up and down the bendy 10-15% slopes with speeds of up to 80km/h. Pretty awesome. It was like a rollercoaster ride. The temple itself was nice, but the golden rock was actually not as big as I’d expected. However, the views from atop the mountain were stunning. It seemed to be the highest mountain in the area, so we could see quite far. Afterward, we went back, got some food and went to sleep.
The next morning we took a bus to Hpa An. However, to get to the bus, we had to get on a tuk-tuk. And when I say on a tuk-tuk, I mean on a tuk-tuk. We climbed on top of it and had a wonderful ride between the luggage and some locals who were looking at us weird and kept taking pictures of us. Paul asked them to take a selfie with his phone as well. It was pretty funny.
When we arrived in Hpa An, we rented two bicycles to explore the area. It was beautiful. Lots of steep hills in the middle of flat countryside. We found a hidden temple when I saw a dragon’s head above the trees and Paul suggested we’d try to get closer. The people there seemed a little bit surprised about tourists arriving, but they were very friendly and tried to explain what was special about the temple. We then went to a more famous temple, which was built around a rock in the middle of an artificial lake. There were quite a few bee hives hanging from the rock, and there was a monk who tied an orange string around the wrist of all visiting, I assume to bestow a blessing, but we don’t know since he didn’t speak English.
That evening, something even more special happened. I could finally eat normally again. A blessing indeed. It was wonderful!
The next morning included a nice breakfast, me finally carrying my own bag again, taking a taxi to the border together with two other Dutch people, an amazing giant early lunch for only 1000 Kyat (0.70 euro) and exchanging the last of our money at the border. We walked across the Friendship Bridge into Thailand (which is where my next blog update will start)
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